Grunge fashion revival - but make it gentrified and charged to credit

Is the trend of dressing broke actually breaking the bank?

Many residents of Melbourne’s inner-city suburbs have adopted a shabby aesthetic by design: ‘Poverty chic’, ‘Shabby chic’ or even ‘NAARM core’. I prefer the phrase poverty chic, purely for the oxymoron. This style includes second hand clothing and at the same time often involves high-end vintage and designer clothing. But designer and poverty in the same sentence? How does that even work?

The roots of poverty chic align most similarly to the grunge aesthetic. Grunge fashion has a long history, but can be characterised simply by the use of thrift store finds and a focus on durable, practical pieces. In Melbourne, a thrifty lifestyle is very prominent, which is where the new ‘poverty chic’ fashion statement ties into grunge. However as the cost of living rises, and more value is placed in fashion brands and items where it wasn’t before (like in older used pieces), vintage clothing is now even more exclusive than designer you can get first hand. The second-hand nature of the products gives a specific ‘vibe’ which can make these expensive items fit the poverty chic aesthetic, while the grunge aspect of the style masks the wealth behind some of these clothes.

So how does one achieve this aesthetic? It’s a deliberate embrace of unkempt thrift store finds, with an inclusion of high-end and designer pieces as a finishing touch. This, worn in a casual way, is what defines the style. Today, many people want to look effortlessly cool, and Melbourne leads the way in this fashion. The city’s style reflects the same architectural and social features of the suburbs where it manifests. You’re most likely to see this unique streetwear around abstract art and visuals in places like Fitzroy, Carlton, or St Kilda. It presents through oversized clothing, branded vintage (old logos as opposed to new), distressed denim, and intentionally mismatched layers. All that’s left is to pair it with (intentionally) scuffed sneakers and mismatched hats and bags.

Unlike other metropolitan areas where clean and polished looks dominate, Melbourne embraces this trend to represent its individuality and creativity. The blend of street style and high-end products creates the distinctive identity that thrives on contrasts. It’s no surprise that Melbourne has embraced the new aesthetic so easily; it only speaks to the city’s reputation for fostering artistic expression, which has helped elevate the idea of what is conventional.

As more people reject mass-produced clothing, there’s a trend towards unique, one-of-a-kind items. These pieces each have their own special details. Their second-hand charm means: thrifting is chic now. Which, is a big turnaround. In the past, it has been almost frowned upon. Kids were bullied for wearing hand-me-downs in the past. Now, it’s celebrated.

But really, why did thrifting become so popular? It’s no new concept, but in the last few years it has taken off. The majority of its popularity comes from the fact that almost anyone can go to their local second-hand store. They can rummage through the aisles looking for a unique piece of clothing that they adore. It’s cost-effective, inclusive and a fun activity.

The popularity of thrifting as an aesthetic can be largely attributed to TikTok, Pinterest, and Instagram. Influencers on these platforms are known for curating outfits and aesthetics. Influencer Emma Chamberlain tied thrifting to her brand early in 2021. Giving tips and tricks on what to look for in these stores, showing off her finds, and offering options on how to style unique pieces. Many other influencers swiftly followed suit. Some others even repurposed their finds and donated them again. This created a personal, innovative, and eco-friendly approach to fashion that was not popular in previous years.

Part of the reason that thrifting and the aesthetic of that was so welcomed into the media, is because it was so refreshing to what we had seen in the past. In the Covid-19 era, fast fashion was in the zeitgeist. Eventually in the years following, online fast fashion clothes and micro trends started to lose popularity. It became clear that low-quality clothes, are only trendy for a short time, and make it hard to create outfits. This wasn’t sustainable in the long term and our fashion trends reflect this. Now, there is much more value placed back into high-end or high-quality pieces. This shift, while inherently good, is something to be cautious of.

So, if you want to participate in poverty chic, where do you start? Luckily, Melbourne is saturated with places to go. If you’re looking for pieces to start building this aesthetic in your wardrobe, start with your local Savers, Salvos, or St. Vinnies.

It does become a bit pricier when it comes down to the statement pieces that mark this style. Luckily, almost every inner-city suburb has their own distinct clothing market. The Fitzroy markets are known for their retro vintage clothes, and Camberwell markets are known for their random ‘jackpot’ finds. There are also places like the Finders Keepers market, and various other hidden gems. The most fun part is finding your own local favourite market or store.

Although, one thing you will notice about all these places is the price jump. A very common experience in these markets is finding something you adore, looking at the tag, and putting it back. People selling these clothes know that their old worn-in clothes with stains, rips or distressed colouring add to the desirability, so they upsell. The theory behind this poverty chic aesthetic is that it’s cheap, accessible and cool for this exact reason: the notion that you’re cool because you’re repurposing your old clothes, and making them fit your style in a new way. The aesthetic of grunge and grunge fashion puts huge emphasis on anti-establishment clothing. Which would not include branded clothing, only ‘cool’ because of the brand. I think the most fitting reason for this clash is how social media has attempted to perfect, the purposely imperfect.

Going out and buying expensive clothes that look old and worn can blur the line between authentic and performative fashion. Ethically, should anyone with money get a leg up on the same people who ultimately started the trend? It would be callous not to acknowledge this as even a slight concern when addressing the trend’s popularity.

Poverty chic can be seen to mimic the struggle of lower-class people, when it’s being conquered by people rooted in privilege. What are the societal implications of affluent people making ‘poor’ an aesthetic? How do those who experience economic hardship feel about these trends?

I interviewed an advocate for low-income support, who comes from a lower socioeconomic background, stating he’s “frustrated about the romanticisation of being poor. It’s not fun unless you have money to fall back on when you’re done playing dress-up." We both agreed that this trend would be a missed opportunity for a larger conversation about economic disparity.

It could be argued that this trend could also reflect changing attitudes towards wealth and materialism and promote recycling old items. While it could also highlight a large disconnect from the real need to shop second-hand. Either way, it is so much more normalised to shop second-hand now. Many university students that I interviewed stated that the cost of living is so bad that it’s not shameful to thrift shop anymore, especially for young people. Which, regardless of motivations, can be inherently good for those who have no other choice but to shop second-hand.

‘Poverty chic’ in Melbourne’s fashion scene highlights a unique opportunity to express your individuality while navigating the complexities of fashion on a budget. These eye-catching outfits create personal narratives that now line our streets. Observe next time you’re out what narratives you encounter, and think of all the possibilities you can create within your own wardrobe.

But, as we embrace this aesthetic, it’s important to remain mindful of its implications and the realities of those who face genuine economic hardship. By keeping yourself aware of the broader context, you can still appreciate the creativity of the trend while staying resourceful and authentic.

‘Poverty chic’ is a new, exciting and empowering trend that embodies confidence and style. In theory, it is proving that you don’t need a lavish wardrobe to make a statement; you just need to respect the nuances behind the look. Yet, the reality is that many people will try to perfect the look that is based on being imperfect, and that’s the part we need to be more conscious about as this inevitably grows even more and takes on new trends at the same time.